Stinging insect home colonies are always guarded by quick response soldiers. Stationed outside to repel any outside invaders, they can quickly call in reinforcements within 20 seconds, in large numbers. If the colony is small, approximately under 25, or less than the size of a tennis ball or a baseball, then the home owner can attempt to remove it himself. Of course, while removing the nests, he should be wearing protective clothing and should have suitable replant close at hand. If the nest is anything larger than a tennis ball or baseball, Dovid recommends that you call a professional

While most of us think of hanging paper colonies as the typical bees nest, Dovid was quick to point out that home colonies can be found in many other places. Bees can make their home in the ground, or make their home in the crack or a crevice of a concrete or brick wall, on in a hollowed up dead tree trunk. Extreme caution should be used in trying to irradiate them yourself. And a home owner should get rid of the small nest in the evening, when the stinging insects are less ferocious, whereas a professional can properly irradiate them during daylight hours. Dovid cautioned that home owners should not attempt to rid a bee hive while standing on a ladder larger than 6 feet tall, as the bees always win. And also, if someone is allergic to bee stings, he should call a professional immediately.

I was amazed to hear that these insects live in hives made of paper, and I asked Dovid to clarify the point. He told me that indeed, bees make the paper hives. They chew anything made of cellulose and they spin into a large paper ball with many layers and many cells in it.

I asked the all important question, how much it generally costs to have a pest specialist remove stinging insect hives. He said there’s no one answer, rather it depends on the difficulty of removing the individual hive. He usually charges 50.00 -70.00 to remove a hive on the ground. If the hive is in a tree, or otherwise located above ground, the cost varies on the height. A bee hive in a tree, higher than the first floor of a house, for instance, might run 125.00 or more.

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Fast Relief for Your Cat
Applying Advantage flea control to your feline friend is fast and easy. There are two convenient package sizes which offer flexibility in dosing:

For cats and kittens eight weeks or older:
Kittens/Cats 9 lbs. and under
Cats over 9 lbs.
Once you have the correct pre-measured dose from your veterinarian, follow the instructions below to provide your purr-fect companion with fast relief. (Advantage for cats should not be used on any other type of animal. Always consult your veterinarian prior to application.)

To correctly treat your kitten or cat:

Remove one applicator tube from the package.
Hold applicator tube in an upright position. Pull cap off tube.
Turn the cap around and place other end of cap back on tube.
Twist cap to break seal, then remove cap from tube.
Part the hair on the neck at the base of the skull until the skin is visible. Place the tip of the tube on the skin and squeeze the tube twice to apply the solution directly on the skin. Do not get this product in your pet’s eyes or mouth. The product is bitter tasting and salivation may occur for a short time if the cat licks the product immediately after treatment. Treatment at the base of the skull will minimize the opportunity for the cat to lick the product.
Discard empty tube by securely wrapping in several layers of newspaper and discarding in trash.

How to apply – for Dogs

Fast Relief for Your Dog
Applying Advantage flea control to your canine companion is fast and easy. Advantage is available in four different dosages, which your veterinarian will determine based on your pet’s weight. (Advantage flea control for dogs should not be used on any other type of animal. Always consult your veterinarian prior to application.)

For dogs and puppies 7 weeks and older:
Puppies/Dogs 10 lbs. and under
Dogs 11-20 lbs.
Dogs 21-55 lbs.
Dogs over 55 lbs.
If your dog weighs 20 lbs. or less, follow these steps:
Remove one applicator tube from the package.
Hold applicator tube in an upright position. Pull off the cap.
Turn the cap around and place other end of cap back on tube.
Twist cap to break seal, then remove cap from tube.
The dog should be standing for easy application. Part the hair between the dog’s shoulder blades on his/her back until the skin is visible. Place the tip of the tube on the skin and squeeze the tube twice to expel the entire contents directly on the skin. Do not get this product in your pet’s eyes or mouth.
Discard empty tube by securely wrapping in several layers of newspaper and discarding in trash.
For dogs 21 lbs. and over:
Follow directions above, except in step 5, apply the entire contents of the tube to three or four spots on the top of the back from the shoulder to the base of the tail.

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Carnivores

A large number of carnivorous behaviors has been observed in harvester ants. These include the queen feeding unhatched eggs to her first litter of offspring and, in the case of the Florida harvester, she feeds special infertile eggs, which have been laid by the workers, to juvenile ants. These sterile eggs are called trophic eggs and this behavior has only been seen in the Florida harvester.

I am unaware of any cases of cannibalism in harvester ants so the occupants of your ant farm ought to be quite safe from each other… What else do harvester ants eat? Well, termites, many castes of which are soft-bodied and somewhat defenseless, consist of approximately sixty percent of their meat intake. Larger insects, such as grasshoppers and crickets form the remainder, usually the ants will extract the soft tissue from the inside of the insect’s exoskeleton if it is too big to be removed to the nest.

Foraging for food

By far the most widespread foraging strategy is called individual foraging. Using this strategy, individual workers will leave the nest to hunt on their own. This is thought to be the most basic of the hunting strategies and, since it is the least sophisticated, it is the tactic that is likely to result in the highest rate of failure and loss. An individual ant is much more likely to be eaten by another animal than is an organized group.

Ants foraging as a group is undeniably one of the most fascinating phenomena in the insect world. Many ant species, such as the Florida, western and red harvester ants all display this behavior and this is one of the reasons for their success. Occasionally, columns of ants over a hundred feet in length and two inches broad can be seen and any small animals that remain in their way are more or less certainly doomed if they do not escape in time. When a group attack takes place the insect (it’s usually an insect) is cut up and taken back to the nest. Often different ants will assume different roles when dealing with prey, from attacking, to dismembering and even digging beneath large prey to make it easier to shift. Although the armies of harvester ants on the move are a terrifying sight to many animals, it should be remembered that not all foraging trips are triumphant. They only come back with food about sixty percent of the time. So the ants in your ant farm ought to be forever appreciative that you are providing them with food without their having to move from their doorstep.

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